2018-06-23

Beginners tools: Sharpening stones

The very first skill required to enjoy manual woodworking is to be able to sharpen properly a blade or a chisel.  You may buy a high end plane but, if you are not good at sharpening, you will not be happy with it.  I have a Blog describing my method and also a french video.

This blog will discuss the types of stones that I've used.  There are many other media available that will not be discussed here because I don't know them.

With experience, I can say that all media can achieve a decent edge.  The problem is with the woodworker skill/knowledge/practice.

Water stones.

1000/8000 water stones



Fine India oil stone.

Fine India oil stone

Arkansas translucent oil stone.

Arkansas translucent oil stone

Diamond stone fine and extra-fine.

Fine and X-fine diamond stones

Extra coarse diamond stone used to flatten water or oil stones.

Extra coarse diamond stone used to flatten oil stones

Leather and LV aluminum oxyde.

Leather and green compound Veritas

Because I own a small microscope I can show you what your edge really looks like when using all those stones.  The following pictures where taken after sharpening with the specified stone using an O-1 blade.  You have to look at the last few thousands near the edge and, if you see a bright line at the edge, be advised that it's the burr that was not removed.

All blades will see some microchipping at the very edge after being used.  What you are interested in is to reduce those microchips by having the finest sharpening scratches at the very edge.

Fine diamond stone.

Under a microscope: Fine diamond

X-fine diamond.

X-fine diamond

Rough oil stone.

Rough oil stone (big box store stone)

India fine oil stone.

India fine oil stone

Arkansas translucent oil stone.

Arkansas oil stone

Arkansas + light leather.

Arkansas + light leather

Arkansas + heavy leather.

Arkansas + heavy leather

Water stone 1000 grit.

Water stone 1000 grit

Water stone 8000 grit.

Water stone 8000 grit

Now, let's see what are the advantages or inconvenient for those stone.
  • Oil stones: They last a lifetime making the total price tag the lower of them all.  I use oil stone on a daily basis because I think it's the best system.  The main problem with those is that they do not cut fast.  That means that they are used mostly by seasoned woodworkers and not very much by beginners because they don't know an appropriate technique.  It takes me three minutes to sharpen a blade. If you have to flatten the back of a blade it will take forever and you will need to buy a diamond stone to help you with this task .  Freehand sharpening can be done with oil stones.
  • Diamond stones are fairly expensive and they don't last forever.  They are very good to remove a lot of material and can also be used for freehand sharpening. With the stones that I have, stropping is a must because they make for a fairly rough edge.  You can use water with them making your sharpening session less dirty.
  • Japanese stones are used a lot.  They are quick at removing material but they also need to be flatten all the time and they will need to be replaced on a regular basis.  Some of them need to remain in a water container all the time.  I would not recommend to try freehand sharpening with those because they are too soft. Those stones leave a very bright edge but I'm not convinced that it makes for a better edge.
My personal recommandation for a beginner would be to go for diamond stones and leather because you will most likely end up buying one of those diamond stone anyway when you will have to flatten a plane back or simply to flatten your japanese stones.

Maybe other type of stones can give a better edge but you will be able to do all your normal woodworking using diamond stones.  Just look at Paul Sellers, that's what he's doing.

Normand

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